Hello everyone:
Well, we have been traveling in southernly direction, through British Columbia, the western province of Canada, on our way back to the “lower 48,” i.e., the continental US (minus Alaska and Hawaii). Time permitting, we have stopped along the way to pay visits to interesting spots.
For example, we stopped in Hazelton, along the Yellowhead highway and visited ‘KSan, a native village (Gitxsan tribe) and toured several “bighouses” (no photography allowed inside). In the olden days, in winter, some 60 people (several families) would live together in one bighouse. Three or four fires would be burning on the floor in the center for heating and cooking. Each family had their own cubicle along the wall by piling storage boxes on top of each other as partitions. In summer, when the weather is warm, families lived separately in their own huts.
Below the nicely decorated fronts of some bighouses as well as several totem poles in ‘KSan.
A few kms farther down is the village of Kispiox, known for its 15 antique totem poles. These are over 100 years old. Below you see the field where they are on display and some carvings in more detail. Often, they include animals, such as the raven (a holy bird), eagles, beavers and bears.
The Hagwilget bridge by Hazelton as it looks today, as wel as a photo of the one constructed 150 years ago by the natives. It was an amazing feat of engineering considering the height and width of the valley it crossed….
We turned southwest on Sea-to-Sky highway and drove by this beautiful river and valley, before getting to the town of Lillooet (a native name). It was known for gold mining (as so many are) and also for jade. Outside the museum, a few big pieces are on display.
Next, we stopped at Whistler, the best-known ski area of Canada and the main site of the upcoming Winter Olympics. Whistler looks like a fancy Swiss ski resort, with nice condos, boutiques, chique hotels and restaurants.
A few hours earlier (on 8-16), I had learned of the birth of my new granddaughter. Her name is Fenna Anouk. She was born in Amsterdam and is the first child of my son Arnout and his g/f Femke. To celebrate this happy occasion, Betsie and I had dinner in a Greek restaurant with a name that could not be more to the point (see below). To add to the coincidences of the day: after dinner, we had a drink in a cafe/bar called Amsterdam which had all kinds of memorabilia from the town where I grew up and where my new granddaughter was born…..
The next day, we took the ferry from Horseshoe Bay, just outside Vancouver, going north to Langdale, to start a trip along the “Sunshine Coast,” as this area north of Vancouver is called.
Below some photos of views from the ferry. We had indeed very nice weather and enjoyed vistas of beautiful islands and inlets; it looks like a great area for sailing, although we heard later that often there is not enough wind.
We camped in a tiny village called Egmont. We have a town in Holland with the same name. But it was actually named after a famous British warship which in turn was named after the Earl of Egmont, who distinguished himself in battles against Napoleon. We must assume that the earl had Dutch ancestry. (History buffs can look him up on the internet.) Anyway, Egmont is also known for its rapids (white water) caused by the tides running in and out of the Skookumchuck (“Strong Water”) Narrows. The explanatory panel below gives you all the information. All I can say is that it was spectacular. Apparently, surfers and kayaker can stay for a long time on the stationary waves that occur during high tide. In addition to a couple of still photos, I have included a link to a Flip video which gives you an idea of the incredible whirlpools that are created by a current of 30kph!
Instead of hiking the 4km to the viewpoint, we decided to bike the trail. It was a real mountain biking experience for which our hybrid bikes were moderately suited.
http://sharing.theflip.com/session/a1943b40b3fc73b3337284020fd6e20e/video/5762681
Before leaving Egmont to take the next ferry, we visited the local museum where a native carver was working on a new totem pole. He was not there, but we took a picture of his work in progress.
After driving along the Sunshine Coast for another 60km, we got to Powell River. From PR, we took a ferry to Vancouver Island where we spent a couple of days.
One trail we hiked, took us to the viewpoint of Ripple Rock. On the explanatory panel, you can read the amazing story of the destruction of Ripple Rock by the largest explosion ever during peace time. RR had been the cause of many shipwrecks over the years as the rocks were under water just below the surface. By drilling tunnels under the bottom of the channel, the rocks were undermined and then blown up.
Ripple Rock trail had more surprises. From a cliff, we looked down on harbor seals, mothers and babies. See several photos below
And if you look closely, you see a good-sized owl sitting next to the big tree trunk. After enlarging the photo, we identified it as a Barred Owl.
Betsie took my photo as I was struggling up a steep rock face. Of course, she was leading the way
And here some photos of the Ripple Rock channel, where during high and low tides the currents are very strong.
We drove all the way to the north of Vancouver Island, an area that is sparsely populated and where there are extensive logging operations. Explanatory panels tell you that for every tree that is cut a new one is being planted. Let’s hope, it’s true.
Logs are tied together in very large rafts that are towed by tugboats for hundreds of kilometers to lumber yards in the Vancouver area.
A burl is like a wart growing on a tree trunk. Here you see the world’s largest….
In hindsight, it was probably a mistake because the road was so bad. Anyway, we did it and drove more than 60km on a very rough logging road to get to Cape Scott NP in the far northwest of Vancouver Island. Once there, however, we enjoyed camping in a real primeval forest with trees around us that were hundreds of years old and hardly anyone there.
My friend Phil, who is taking care of my house while I am traveling, is a mushroom expert. He will have to tell us what we found here (see below). They are certainly beautiful. But are they edible? And Phil obliged; here is his take on these mushrooms:
"I am quite sure the mushrooms are Chicken mushrooms (a member of the polypore family formally named L. Sulfureus, aka 'sulfur shelf'). The only thing that would make me say otherwise is if they were growing on a living tree because i can't remember personally every seeing them growing on a live tree (only stumps and logs). The good news is that there are no toxic imitators.
They are most delicious (and nutritious) and get their name because they smell like chicken when they are cooking (as well as taste somewhat like it) They also dehydrate well and store well."
We hiked through the beautiful forest to a beach by this bay with the Pacific in the distance. It was low tide, so were able to see caves and sea creatures that my biologist friends will have to identify for us……
This must be a young giant squid
But these, who knows?
Caves only accessible during low tide
These rocks are called stacks, shaped by sand and sea.
The longest seaweed I had ever seen….
The tree behind our camper must have been 300 years old
Returning along that bad dirt road to Port McNeill, we happened to meet this black bear looking for something to eat. It was right next to our camper. Hence these close-up shots (taken safely from inside).
A curious sight along that same road: a tree covered with old shoes; some religious text that didn’t make much sense was also displayed
We then visited a small island: Alert Bay, off the northeast shore of Vancouver Island
Half of the people who live on Alert Bay are natives/indians (First Nations people as they are called here). The U’mista museum is dedicated to native art. We found their collection fascinating and beautiful until the power outage, when the museum had to close. We only saw half of the exceptional collection of native artifacts, many types of masks and costumes used during “potlatches.” Potlatches are old ceremonies, mostly celebrations, where important persons give away most of their belongings. As a result, their status in the community is enhanced. Over the years, a number of anthropologists have studied this custom (quite exceptional amoung humans). This research started already in the 19th century. I had learned about it in a sociology class I took in college in Amsterdam in the last 1950s.
A totem pole outside the museum; no photography allowed inside.
And here is another record: Alert Bay has the world’s tallest totem pole. I don’t know the actual height but would estimate it was over 50 meters (Betsie thinks it was shorter….)
I took this picture, also showing the tall totem pole, when we were on the ferry leaving Alert Bay.
A native carver at work on another totem pole
Waiting in line for the ferry, a native family
Good bye to Alert Bay..
On our last day on Vancouver Island, we drove to the southernmost city. It’s well-known, big and beautiful: Victoria. Here Betsie and I stand in front the famous Empress Hotel by the harbor.
Along the waterfront of Victoria, various activities for tourists: Anny Oakley, the famous cowgirl with the best shot and a funny juggler whom we watched for awhile. (Last year, I was also in Victoria, with my daughter and family. I have a photo of my grandson with that same lady impersonating Annie Oakley; it must pay well….)
A man from Belgium (Dutch-speaker) selling Belgian waffles. I couldn’t resist……
Some views of the beautiful harbor of Victoria. It’s surrounded by fancy hotels and condos.
Like San Francisco, Victoria has a picturesque Fisherman’s Wharf with two-story houseboats.
A final shot of Victoria’s harbor, before we boarded the ferry to Washington State and leaving Canada behind us, at least for this trip. We were in Canada and Alaska for over 2 months…..
From this point on, all our stories will be situated on US territory. We are starting out in Washington State. We hope to camp and hike for the next couple of days in Olympic Nat. Park. More after that….
